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4 Steps To Understanding White Balance

Why White Balance is important for you

If you’ve ever taken photos indoors, without a flash, and wondered why everyone looks so orange, then this post will definitely help you. White balance can be hard to master at first, but once you understand it a little more, it can become quite intuitive, and understanding white balance is absolutely key to making your photos look good.

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Section 1 – What is White Balance?

The White Balance (WB) determines how accurate the colors in your photos come out, specifically; it determines how ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ an image feels. Setting your WB accurately will prevent against nasty color cast which makes your image look unnatural. Different color casts come from white not being a true white in different lighting situations, this post will teach you how to deal with that.

Section 2 – How do I deal with White Balance?

Modern digital cameras give you the option to change the WB manually as well as giving you an auto white balance (AWB). AWB is often suitable for daylight situations, but in most other situations, it’s just having an educated guess at what the balance should be. The most common example for this is when shooting indoors in tungsten light. Canon in particular are notoriously bad at getting the color right on Auto mode and the color can often come out far too warm.

In a typical digital SLR (and some advanced compacts) you will typically have this kind of scale of white balance to choose from:

Auto: Good if you don’t know what you’re doing and it works well in sunlight, but in most situations it’s not suitable.
Daylight: Auto mode can been good in daylight, but not perfect. I would typically use this balance in daylight, but most people tend to stick to auto because they’re worried about forgetting to change the WB when they go back indoors.
Shade: Auto mode makes photos look a little cold in the shade so using this preset will be a lot more accurate.
Cloudy: Again, this is pretty self explanatory as to when you’d use it.
Tungsten: This light comes from incandescent bulbs found in your home and if left on auto your photos will come out very warm with an almost orange color cast.
Fluorescent: This comes from tube lighting found in offices and hospitals. It’s a very cold light and can make your photos appear blue. This is also why offices have that nasty sterile feel.
Flash: This compensates for the somewhat cool light of the camera’s flash.
Custom: This is used for setting the white balance accurately using a grey card – more about this in section 3.
Temperature: This is for experienced professional photographers – more about this in section 3.

All of these modes simply tell your camera how much it should adjust the colour of the photo it’s taking.

To demonstrate how these modes affect the temperature of a photo, i’ve taken a photo of a model with the sun setting behind her, with no sun shining directly onto her face. You’ll see that the ‘Shade’ setting is most accurate for that situation.

Auto – Photo comes quite cool looking.

Cloud – Very good, but still a little colder then the environment actually was.Daylight – Not bad, but the camera is trying to compensate for a much brighter environment so it’s overcompensating.

Flash – Worked surprisingly well, it’s a more accurate auto mode for this sort of lighting.

Fluorescent – Far too cold looking, this setting is used to much warmer light so has cooled the photo accordingly.

Shade – Very accurate, it captures the spring evening perfectly.

Tungsten – Again, this setting is used to much warmer light.

Section 3 – How to get Perfect Colour Reproduction

The last 2 settings listed above and used to create the most accurate white balance. Firstly though, you need to learn about grey cards.

Grey cards are used to determine which white balance should be used by your camera as they are a made from 18% grey which is a neutral hue. They work by taking a photo of the card that fills the whole frame of your camera and then setting this as the white balance inside your camera. The camera sees the difference between the result and the neutral hue and determines the balance from that. The reason a grey card is used over white is because if you overexpose any color enough, it’ll eventually come out as white and WB is all about color, not brightness. As the grey photo was taken in the same lighting environment as the rest of your photos will be, the camera knows exactly how much to adjust the balance.

Custom: This is where you would take the photo of the grey card and set it as your white balance. All cameras are different so I recommend looking in your manual as to how to do this. This is the most accurate way possible to capture color on the cheap and I fully recommend it.

Color Temperature / Kelvin: This is for professional photographers who are used to using expensive color temperature meters in studio conditions and setting the WB value manually. The value is set in Kelvin’s – named after the man who created the scale. For example sunlight is approximately 5200K and tungsten is approximately 3200K. If you’re really experienced with WB then after time you’ll be able to judge it for yourself.

Section 4 – Which Setting is Best for me?

You basically have 5 options:

1: You can spend all your time shooting on auto mode and hope for the best. This is alright if you’re still trying to get to grips with exposure, but after that I recommend you move on.

2: You can try and use the preset modes inside your camera to get accurate results. This is certainly a step in the right direction, but they’re still just ballpark figures and won’t always produce 100% correct results.

3: You can shoot in custom mode. This is the most popular choice by professional photographers, but will take some time to get used to and requires carrying around a grey card.

4: You could use a light temperature meter. This is very accurate, but can cost a lot of money so is not really an option for most.

5: You can shoot in RAW. For those of you that don’t know, RAW is an uncompressed file format that allows you to still change things on a computer after the photo has been taken. One of those things in the white balance.

With the information above you should be well on your way to capturing the perfect colours every time.

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4 Steps To Understanding White BalanceThank you for reading my post, if you have any questions, please leave a comment below.

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    • Over 300 presets to instantly transform your photography
    • Simple video tutorials to make amazing adjustments easy
    • Get that 'professionally processed look' in seconds

Enter 'expertphotog' at the checkout to save $15!

Check Them Out Now!


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7 thoughts on “4 Steps To Understanding White Balance

  1. Jonas

    Shooting RAW doesn’t only allow you to adjust white balance after the shot in post-processing — it *requires* you to do so. Shooting RAW ignores any white balance setting in the camera, since white balance is actually treated like a post-processing option in cameras.

    So shooting JPG and setting white balance to cloudy first makes the camera capture the shot as RAW internally, and then applies the white balance settings as it created the JPG image.

  2. Tom

    What Jonas states could well be true for some cameras, but it’s not true for all of them. I use Nikons and I shoot in RAW. Which setting I use DOES make a difference!

    1. Josh Post author

      I’ll have to plead ignorance on this one, care to go into more detail? Is is a certain range of camera’s, and do you have an article you could link us to?

      Thanks for the intriguing comment.

      1. Robert

        I use a Nikon D3100 and always shoot in RAW, when I open the files in Photoshop they save the cameras WB setting “as shot” (and those settings are slightly different than PS settings for the same thing). The Only difference it makes is that the preview will be in that WB setting until you change it, therefore if you shot it in the correct WB you can save and go on without changing anything, not -requiring- you to do anything.

  3. JohannTanzer

    what Jonas says is true for all cameras,
    a Raw file is just the information as it comes from the sensor, with no post-processing, and no whitebalance, the camera records the value of the evaluated white balance anyway, and it is up to the post processing program weather to use this information or not.
    in Adobe Light lightroom i can change the WB from “as shoot” to Daylight or cloudy and so on.
    You will find that different programms will show the same raw file quite differently, with different contrast, white balance, exposure, and so on, thats because a raw file is not actually a picture, it is just information that can be used to produce a picture ( a .jpg, that looks the same everywhere ) and this information can be interpret differently.
    And i shoot Canon, but the idea behind RAW is the same no matter what camera you use.

    got it?

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